3.0 killer

Replaced the M/C, world of difference. Also opened up a drum, and discovered a broken adjuster screw, and fixed that. The brakes are working now, for the most part. did a good bleed on the system, in the correct order. Got good fluid, no bubbles, etc. The M/C was also bench bled until no bubbles came out. I'm going to play with it a little more tommorow, but still now, the pedal goes almost all the way to the floor on the first push, unless I've just ramped up the RPMs. If I've just done that, or do that simultaneously, brake pedal is solid, and the truck stops well. I'm wondering if my vaccum line is bad, I've got an extra, going to try that, and adjusting the drum shoes a little tighter.

Sounds like yer gettin her all dialed in. Definitely get those rears adjusted properly. It will make a world of difference.

hmm, seems like there is still something goin on. you should have a solid, qtr to half push, hard pedal with no vacuum. Not sure if there is a difference in pedal throw/geometry between Chevy and yota.. any play before the pushrod hits the master??

Booster????

See, thing is, the booster is an added bonus.. If there is no booster, the pedal should still be solid and not go to the floor. Seems like you still have some air in the lines, more adjusting in the rear, or some adjustment on the pushrod..

Are they old ruber brake lines they could be swelling instead of transfering pressure

Think he's got steel braids on the front. Not sure what's in back..