3.0 killer

thanks guys.


Got a pic or something for me Chris? I think I'm going to head to PnP and see if I can find a master in decent shape in the morning. Have to head over to that side of town anyway.

fordh8r. Got that dialed in already.

Blackdog wrote:

Got a pic or something for me Chris? I think I'm going to head to PnP and see if I can find a master in decent shape in the morning. Have to head over to that side of town anyway.

Personally, I would prefer to see you buy this particular item as new since it is your brakes we're talking about. I realize money maybe an issue but I would rather see you save money on some other part of the build. I'm sure you understand. Just my .02

Blackdog wrote:
fordh8r. Got that dialed in already.

Cool!

scroll to the last pic in the first post. You will need to reverse your brakelines coming out of the M/C also.

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.coloradok5.com/photos/data/936/IMG_3115_sized.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php%3Ft%3D239503&usg=__40Iu30fdQkfqX8N32phogc-XGPg=&h=480&w=640&sz=69&hl=en&start=18&tbnid=HuiqhUso6UQXAM:&tbnh=103&tbnw=137&prev=/images%3Fq%3D1%2Bton%2Bchevy%2Bmaster%2Bcylinder%26gbv%3D2%26hl%3Den

fordh8r wrote:

Personally, I would prefer to see you buy this particular item as new since it is your brakes we're talking about. I realize money maybe an issue but I would rather see you save money on some other part of the build. I'm sure you understand. Just my .02


[/quote]

Yup. I just checked some prices, I thought they would be significantly more expensive. I'd probably wind up paying about the same price at PnP!!

New it is!!

Replaced the M/C, world of difference. Also opened up a drum, and discovered a broken adjuster screw, and fixed that. The brakes are working now, for the most part. did a good bleed on the system, in the correct order. Got good fluid, no bubbles, etc. The M/C was also bench bled until no bubbles came out. I'm going to play with it a little more tommorow, but still now, the pedal goes almost all the way to the floor on the first push, unless I've just ramped up the RPMs. If I've just done that, or do that simultaneously, brake pedal is solid, and the truck stops well. I'm wondering if my vaccum line is bad, I've got an extra, going to try that, and adjusting the drum shoes a little tighter.

Sounds like yer gettin her all dialed in. Definitely get those rears adjusted properly. It will make a world of difference.

hmm, seems like there is still something goin on. you should have a solid, qtr to half push, hard pedal with no vacuum. Not sure if there is a difference in pedal throw/geometry between Chevy and yota.. any play before the pushrod hits the master??

Booster????

See, thing is, the booster is an added bonus.. If there is no booster, the pedal should still be solid and not go to the floor. Seems like you still have some air in the lines, more adjusting in the rear, or some adjustment on the pushrod..

Are they old ruber brake lines they could be swelling instead of transfering pressure

Think he's got steel braids on the front. Not sure what's in back..